The patola saree is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today. Patola silk sarees are the pride of Gujarat. These sarees are created by using the resist dying technique. There are two types of Patola sarees: * Rajkot Patola: This is only vertically resisting dyed (single ikat). * Patan Patola: This is horizontally-resist dyed (double ikat). Patola sarees are known for their flaming bright colors and geometric designs interwoven with folk motifs. Every patola saree is one of its kinds as it is created entirely with the imagination and skill of the weaver. Paten patola is famous for extremely delicate patterns woven with great precision and clarity. A patola sari takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated the designs is and if the length is 5 or 6 meters. Besides Paten, Surat is acclaimed for patola textiles. Bharatplaza is one of the best shop for Patola sarees, where you can find exclusive collection of patola sari from Hyderabad for formal occasion for shopping patola saris online and much more, learn more about patola textiles and patulous here. The patola of Patan is done in the double ikkat style, which is perhaps the most complicated of all textiles designs in the whole world. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the knotted portions of the thread do not catch the colors. The result is not only a tremendous richness in color of the fabric, but that both side of the saree look exactly alike, and can be worn either way. In fact except to an expert, a patola looks like a piece of silk fabric, printed on both sides in the same design. The weaving is done on simple traditional handlooms, and the dyes used are made from vegetable extracts and other natural colors, which are so fast that there is a Gujarati saying that "the patola will tear, but the color will not fade." A patola saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated the designs is and if the length is 5 or 6
meters, it can cause from Rs.50, 000/- to over Rs. 100,000/- a piece and these are really good-looking saree. Paten produces very intricate patterns worked with precision and clarity, with the characteristic geometric delineation of the design, while maintaining the soft hazy outlines, a natural effect of the technique. In an area called Sadvi Wada you can watch the complex weaving of silk patola saris, once the preferred garment of queens and aristocrats, and now made by just one family. Fabric in Patola Saree- Patola saree is woven from silk called the patola silk. The patola silks are still made by a handful of master weavers from Patan and Surat known for their zari work. The Process- A Patola Saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated the design is. The Patan patola is done in the Double ikat style, which is perhaps the most complicated textile design in the whole world. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the knotted portions of the thread do not catch the colors. The result is that both sides of the saree look exactly alike as if it is printed on both sides with the same design, and can be worn either way. Patola Sari: There were four distinct styles in the patolas woven originally in Gujarat by the Salvi community. The double ikat sarees with all over patterns of flowers, parrots, dancing figures and elephants were used by the Jains and Hindus. For the Muslim Vora community special sarees with geometric and floral designs were woven for use during weddings. There were also the sarees woven for the Maharashtrian Brahmins with a plain, dark-colored body and borders with women and birds, called the Nari Kunj. There was a cloth specially woven for the traditional export markets in the Far East. Patola Silk - Ethnic Flair: Gujarat has often been called the Manchester of the East. With its modern textile works this is hardly surprising. However, the State has been involved in the textile trade for centuries and during the time of the Sultanate, Ahmadabad had large factories where brocades were woven. Almost all parts of the State specialize in some from the exotic textile weaving: the Patola silk sarees are still made by a handful of master weavers from Paten and Surat known for its zari work. However, there is a little village in North West Gujarat which is perhaps not known so well outside the State. This hamlet called Aashaval is home to the Aashavali sari. Creating an Aashavali is a very tedious and time-consuming job as the weaving is done using the age-old technique of jalas. The distinctive aspect of this fabric is its heavily textured, almost brocade-like quality. The elaborate pallavs and borders are dazzlingly adorned with motifs woven in warm colors. The zari of the sari has a sheen which is muted as it is woven in the twill weave. Diagonal borders in bright colors simulate the effect of enameling on gold. Some Aashavali saris which are for more informal occasions do not have such a spectacular use of zari. Bright shades relieve the stark monotony of the desert landscape. The embroidered fabrics that come from Banni in Kutch are embellished with mirrors and beads. The Jets, a sub-caste of the Bannis, are known for their refined embroidery skills. The specialty of the embroidery here is the execution of architectural designs known as the heer bharat. The stitch derives its name from the floss-silk (heer). Long stitches, almost three inches running parallel to the warp in one part of the motif and to the weft in the other give it a natural texture. In the centre is a mirror secured with chain-stitch. The Mochi community, who it is believed, learnt their craft from Muslim craftsmen, has almost perfected the fine art of embroidering chain-stitch on leather. Motifs derived from Mughal and Persian art as well as designs using animal forms are used extensively in their work. Immigrants from Saurashtra, the Kombis, prefer the use of white, yellow or saffron base cloth for their garments. While working with chain-stitch in colorful motifs, their workmanship is not nearly as fine as that of the Mochis. In Saurashtra, the most ancient and noteworthy embroidery was done by the Kathi, the oldest known piece being almost a century old. The women of this community showed preference for black cloth embroidered in crimson, violet golden yellow and white with greens and blues sparingly used to balance the colors. The main stitch was an elongated darn and chain-cum-interlacing. Bead work was introduced into this region at a much later stage. Imported from East Africa around 1850, the Mochi craftsmen were the first to use them. By the turn of the century women of other castes replaced their thread-work by beads. Though the craft has attained a degree of commercialization, even today the finest pieces are those which formed a part of the bride’s dowry almost 30 or 40 years ago. The best place to see the more exquisite works of Gujarati embroidery, bead work and other similar crafts is at their religious ceremonies, weddings and festivals. It is on these occasions that each caste proudly establishes its identity by wearing its own highly distinctive and original garments. And as long as there will be the hot afternoon sun shining down fiercely at them, the womenfolk from Gujarat will spend those long, hot afternoons spinning yet more of their colorful and aesthetically pleasing wonders.